Woman in a black mesh-panel waistcoat over a silver satin top with puffed sleeves and black wide-leg trousers, concrete wall

Dark tailoring · Spring · Autumn · Winter

Black mesh-panel waistcoat with silver satin drape

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One shine per outfit. I ration it. A black wool waistcoat with mesh panels at the sides, over a silver liquid-satin wrap, sleeves ballooning at the wrist. Black pleated wide-leg trousers, shoes lost under the hem. The mesh is the only opening. Not an invitation. Late show, waistcoat buttoned.

A single-button black waistcoat with mesh side panels over a silver liquid-satin wrap with ballooning sleeves, and black pleated wide-leg trousers.

The waistcoat is black wool crepe, fitted through the body, with peaked lapels, one button at the waist and open mesh panels set into each side seam so the silver shows through the grid. Under it, a silver liquid-satin top that wraps across the chest and gathers into two enormous sleeves, puffed high over the shoulder and pinned back at the arm, so the black lapels sit on top of a cloud of metal. The trousers are black wool, high-waisted, with deep pleats that drape at the hip and fall into a wide, slightly cocooned leg.

This is an event outfit and a good one: openings, cocktails, anything with a photographer. It works from autumn to spring because the sleeves are their own coat. Keep everything else black and matte; a second shine competes with the satin and loses. The shoes should disappear under the hem.

The mesh is not there to be practical. Nothing here is.